South Pacific Blog

My first visit to Cuba was almost 38 years ago. I arrived at Jose Marti International Airport, Havana, in December, 1974, after backpacking around South America and the Caribbean for over a year. I had landed a job with a Canadian tour company, and over the following winter seasons I served as a destination representative for Unitours (Canada) Limited at resorts on Isla de la Juventud (Isle of Pines), Playa Jibacoa, and Playa Varadero. In 1979 I traded babysitting Canadian tourists for a career as a guidebook writer. In June 1979 the first edition of South Pacific Handbook was published, co-authored by Bill Dalton and myself. After that, Bill returned to writing about Indonesia and I carried on with seven editions of South Pacific, nine of Moon Fiji, seven of Moon Tahiti, and three of Micronesia.

I didn`t return to Cuba until 1992 when the country`s socialist revolution appeared to be on its last legs. Fortunately for Fidel, the United States Government propped up Cuban communism with their self-defeating trade embargo which kept Cuba free of American influence and the Castros in power. The early 1990s were difficult times for Cubans and I shared the food and transportation difficulties the local population was facing. In 1996 I was back researching the first edition of Lonely Planet Cuba, published in January 1997. I also researched and wrote the second edition (July 2000), after which Lonely Planet decided they didn`t need me anymore. Many of my photos from those years are still freely accessible on Cuba Pictures.

Today Cuba is a booming travel destination with cheap holidays available to numerous resort destinations. Almost three million Canadians, Europeans, and Latin Americans visit Cuba each year. Only Americans are largely absent, although a few intrepid US blockade runners arrive via Cancun, Nassau, and other discreet gateways. The Cuban Government treats US passport holders the same as anyone else and it is Washington which is restricting the personal freedom of its own citizens. The lack of Americans is a boon to other nationalities. Hotel rooms in Cuba are at a premium, and if Americans were competing for the same beds, the situation would be dire. So enjoy Cuba now, while you can, before Obama finally gets smart and unleashes the Miami hordes.

American travel agents are not usually interested in booking small family pensions in French Polynesia. International resorts are more their style: Easy to arrange and the commissions are good. This is rather a pity as the pensions put you in touch with local life and allow you be about the only tourist in the atoll. A reader, Elisabeth Kingwill, recently used Moon Tahiti on a trip around the Tuamotu Islands and sent me feedback on her experiences.

On Manihi atoll Elisabeth stayed at Pearl Village Manihi, a pleasant 10-minute walk from Turipaoa village and the pass. The pension opened in 2010 and consists of four well-constructed cottages, each with a king size plus a single bed, bath with cold water shower, and a small TV. The units face a small private marina and the snorkeling here as well as along the coral rocks just outside the marina is not bad. However, during windy conditions the visibility can be poor due to the sandy bottom. Pearl Village’s owner John Drollet and his assistant Stevie can take you drift snorkeling through the pass or to an uninhabited motu. Bonito fishing outside the lagoon is also possible. All excursions were included in the CFP 20,000 per couple per night. Madame Drollet is a competent cook who will prepare a different dish each night of your stay (breakfast and dinner are also included). For lunch there’s a “Snack” in the village selling casse-croute sandwiches, hamburgers, and hot dogs. You can email Pearl Village Manihi at pension.mpv@mail.pf

The highlight of Elisabeth’s atoll adventure was Tetamanu Village on Fakarava atoll. It’s in a dream location with authentic palm-thatched fare right on the south pass. Watching the tide roar in and out like a wild river is mesmerizing. Black tip sharks, giant morays, Napoleon wrasses, and lots of other fish can be easily observed, not only while snorkeling but also from the piers and restaurant. Scuba divers swim with hundreds of sharks in the pass. The dive shop Tetamanu Diving by Eleuthera between the cabins and the restaurant provides good quality diving equipment and a very competent divemaster.

On Tikehau atoll, scenic Relais Royal Tikehau is an ideal spot to recover from a long trip. This small pension sits on its own private motu nestled between a lovely beach and a shallow hoa (reef channel), just a five-minute boat ride from the village. The food is good and ample, and the owner Monique is helpful. The three family-operated pensions just mentioned are only examples of what awaits you in the Tuamotu Islands. Many more are listed in Moon Tahiti.

Australia is a vast, diverse, and beautiful country, but it’s easy to get sucked into the tourist traps around Sydney and the Gold Coast. These make for an unforgettable holiday, but if you’re looking for something a little bit different from your trip Down Under, then throw away the tourist brochure and explore Australia’s lesser-known delights.

Western Australia: Even for most Australians, or certainly the ones who live in the metropolitan hubs of Sydney and Melbourne, a trip to Western Australia is an adventure into the heartland of the country’s wild outback. From the Pinnacles Desert to the Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia has it all: sculpted landscapes and geological wonders, lush, green forests and hundreds of miles of wild, dramatic coastline. The native flora and fauna, from the clusters of red and green kangaroo paw to quokkas and kookaburras, bring this incredibly territory to life. A rich source of Aboriginal culture, it provides a window to Australia’s ancient past — take a tour of indigenous lands and learn about the Dreaming, the mythical framework of creation that guides Aboriginal spirituality.

Carnarvon Gorge, Queensland: A green, thriving, natural sanctuary in the middle of Queensland’s semi-arid central region, Garnarvon Gorge is a spectacular spot well off the tourist track. Distinguished by white sandstone cliffs surrounded by lush forest and carved through with boulder-strewn creeks, the park is ideal for trail walks of various lengths. On the road between Emerald and Roma, and sufficiently distant from the nearest petrol station to make filling up the tank a necessity, Carnarvon Gorge is one of those places that feels completely free from the march of progress — an oasis of natural beauty and harmony. Full of rare plant and insect species, and over 170 different types of bird, it’s the perfect place to immerse yourself in Australia’s myriad wildlife. There are plenty of echoes of the humans who inhabited the gorge over the centuries. Aboriginal rock art, including freehand paintings and engravings, mark the sandstone as reminders of their intense spiritual connection to the land.

River Red Gum National Park: Home to huge families of kangaroos and koalas, this stunning national park is an outdoor enthusiasts idea of heaven. Located on the New South Wales and Victoria border, it’s a magnet for campers, kayakers and mountain bikers, but there’s plenty of park to go round.

Tasmania: By the time travelers from Europe arrive in Australia, a trip to Tasmania probably feels like a plane journey too far. But it’s more than worth it. Blessed with miles of pristine coastline and natural wilderness, it also enjoys milder temperatures than the mainland. Tasmania’s biggest city Hobart boasts some of the oldest and most beautiful architecture in Australia, all of it framed by the impressive backdrop of Mt Wellington.

Kakadu National Park: Located in the Northern Territory, Kakadu is unusual in that it’s a World Heritage site for both natural and cultural reasons. One of the most diverse ecosystems on earth, it’s home to the ancient Bininj and Mugguy people, and also a habitat for an array of birds, fish, reptiles and salt water crocodiles.

Ever since the father of the theory of evolution, Charles Darwin, made the Galapagos famous, this remote wilderness has been on travelers “to do” lists and today a host of vessels make the 600-mile crossing from South America in serious style. Sailing yachts such as the SS Mary Anne offer billowing white sails, coils of rope on deck, and old-fashioned luxury. With just a handful of rooms on board, the guests’ experience is exclusive, and they get to explore the wonders of the Galapagos without the crowds.

Each island has its own characteristics, and while none of them are lush (in fact, many of the Galapagos islands resemble your image of the surface of the moon), they are bursting with unusual wildlife. Isolated from the mainland for millions of years, and until recently supporting very few humans, the animals here have never been hunted and are therefore quite accepting of human presence. It’s a weird but amazing sensation to be eyed up by these creatures as if you were simply another one of them.

Behold the giant tortoise and laugh at the blue-footed booby birds. Snorkel with tame and curious penguins, sea lions, and stingrays, and grab some amazing shots of the lava lizards and contemplative marine iguanas before they swim away. On the island of Isabella there is a volcano you can climb, and on Santa Cruz you can spend some time exploring the Charles Darwin Research Station, where scores of biologists continue the work Darwin himself began nearly 200 years ago.

There are some stunning accommodation options onshore. Splash out under canvas in ultra-luxury tents set on raised platforms or bathe in a gorgeous infinity pool after a day’s exploring. It’s easy to combine your Galapagos trip with some time in Ecuador– the country of your cruise’s arrival and departure. Exsus Luxury Holidays can take you there.

I receive quite a few emails from people who will be visiting Easter Island by cruise ship inquiring about day tours. The sales teams aboard these vessels routinely gouge their passengers for land tours. One reader of this blog recently reported that he was being asked US$219 for the cheapest three-hour island tour during his ship’s one-day stop at Hanga Roa.

Well, it is possible to avoid the inflated prices charged for tours booked aboard ship by contacting local companies such as Easter Island Spirit or Rapa Nui Travel and asking them to organize your sightseeing while in port. Not only will the price by lower but your group will be much smaller. It’s important to arrange this well in advance as every tour bus seat on the island will be occupied while your ship is in port.

If you can’t or don’t wish to make such arrangements, your next best option is taking a taxi from town to the Orongo archaeological site at the summit of Rao Kao. This might cost anywhere from US$10 to US$20 one way for the car, depending on your bargaining ability and knowledge of Spanish. You can easily walk back down to town in under an hour after seeing the sights on the volcano. Better yet, consider hiring a taxi for the day. I think $100 would be fair for five or six hours, and split between three or four people, it will be inexpensive. But you’ll need to do your homework as the driver won’t speak English. Make a point form list of what you want to see and show it to the driver. Make sure everything is clearly understood including the price, time you’ll be with him, etc. Some tips on how what to expect are in my Hiking Guide to Easter Island.

When budgeting keep in mind that a US$60 national park admission fee is collected at Orongo, entry to Rano Raraku included. On cruise ship days taxi drivers also try to cash in on visitors by asking as much as US$50 for the ride to Orongo or US$200 for a one-day island tour. And if you’ll be transiting Santiago International Airport you’ll be taxed US$140 if you’re American, US$132 if you’re Canadian, or US$95 if you’re Australian, in cash (collected only once per passport). Bring money.

The Fiji archipelago is famous for its pristine white sands and turquoise waters. Beyond the beach, adventurous tourists explore the rugged charms of the emerald green interior with cascading waterfalls at every turn. Yet to really understand the culture one must spend time among the Fijians and volunteering on gap year projects gives visitors the opportunity to discover the real Fiji for themselves.

In Suva, the animal care project offered by Projects Abroad  is ideal for pre-university students considering a career in veterinary medicine, or anyone who just loves animals. Volunteers work at the Fiji Society for the Prevention of Cruelty of Animals which has a small veterinary clinic, a welfare office, and a shelter for the rehabilitation and homing of abandoned dogs and cats. Volunteers get involved in vaccinations, operations, inspections, dog trapping, and de-sexing programmes, and work closely with the local community.

Gap year volunteers who wish to truly immerse themselves in traditional Fijian culture can work on community projects based in villages near Nadi or Suva. Here they get involved in every aspect of village life and help with teaching, farming, cooking, basket weaving, and mat making, along with anything else that needs doing. It’s a great way to experience life as others live it, away from the hustle and bustle of towns.

Working in local primary schools can provide gap year students with a unique new perspective on this nation of islands. They gain invaluable teaching experience without needing to have any previous qualifications and make a real difference in the lives of the children they teach. Although education is not compulsory in Fiji, 99% of Fijian children attend primary school as it’s free for the first eight years. In the increasingly urbanised Fijian culture, speaking good English is essential for career prospects, particularly in the booming tourism industry. Working alongside local teachers, the volunteers use song, conversation, and games to improve the children’s English. Along the way they gain an insight into the culture and lives of ordinary Fijians.

Most large tour operators and online travel sites can book tours to the South Pacific. Their packages are designed to appeal to the lowest common denominator and they seldom stray from the beaten tourist track. While this may serve the needs of those who looking for the cheapest trip possible, the people working at mass consumer companies usually have no knowledge of the area and will only be able to sell you the generic products on their screens. Such offerings are unlikely to satisfy those looking for something special such as a specific activity, a more remote location, or even a little luxury.

Specialist travel agents which sell only the islands are more likely to be able to provide the holiday of your dreams. One such company I’ve discovered recently is Turquoise Holidays in the United Kingdom. They focus on extraordinary locations around the world, including the Cook Islands, Fiji, Samoa, Tahiti, and Vanuatu. Turquoise sells only luxury properties they have inspected personally. Romance and style are their watchwords.

Turquoise’s Tahiti holidays  are to selected resorts on Bora Bora, Hiva Oa, Huahine, Moorea, Nuku Hiva, Raiatea, Rangiroa, Taha’a, Tahiti, and Tikehau, while their Fiji holidays  are to the Mamanuca and Yasawa islands, Northern Fiji, and others. If you’re not sure where to go, visit the Hawaii and South Pacific section of their website and surf through the many resorts described there. Feature articles on their blog are found under “Latest News” and there are suggested itineraries, honeymoon ideas, and cruising opportunities under “Holiday Ideas”. The “Special Offers” can be interesting too.